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05 Nov 2023
leaves-mulch

Leaves Should Be Shredded Before Used as Mulch

A reader said he had heard of the practice of shredding leaves prior to using them as mulch but wondered about the reason behind it. Was it just to make it easier to dispose of the leaves, since, once shredded, the load would be more compact? Or was there some other benefit?

Well, shredding your leaves does have several benefits if one chooses to go that route. If you are responsible for your own leaves, shredding them with a leaf shredder or even a mower is actually the most efficient way to dispose of them. Regardless of if you intend on using them as leaf mulch or producing compost, shedding them is the best way to go.

If raking up and bagging your leaves, shredding them allows you to pack more into the collection bag. While it does require more work, it is more eco-friendly to uses less non-biodegradable material. Not to mention, it saves money using less disposal bags.

The main benefit of shredding leaves is that it makes really good mulch in the spring time and great compost for gardens. This is particularly beneficial for those who are growing an organic garden; as leaf mulch will eventually decompose releasing nutrients into the soil and made available to your plants. While whole leaves will do the same thing, it will take twice as long for the decomposition to take place. Plus whole leaves will mat down, creating an impervious layer that would not “breath” nor allow water to drain down to the soil.

03 Nov 2023
how-to-get-rid-of-crabgrass

How to Get Rid of Crabgrass for Good

The best weapon you have against this annual weed is crabgrass preemergence herbicide (also called crabgrass preventer). You apply this product in the spring before the crabgrass seed sprouts. This granular herbicide works by creating a chemical barrier at the surface of the soil. As the seeds begin germination, they take in the herbicide and die.

Get Rid of Crabgrass for Good:

One of the most visually obnoxious plants that lawns are subject to is crabgrass. All plants are what can be described as opportunistic. As long as there is a viable seed or root or tuber… AND OPPORTUNITY, plants will propagate and spread. Crabgrass is especially efficient at this. Understanding why crabgrass grows is imperative to effectively stopping it from spreading and ultimately keeping it out of the lawn environment.

Crabgrass grows from the millions of seeds that are produced from prior years of crabgrass growth. These seeds can lie dormant in the soil for a very long time before ever producing a “plant” or cluster of crabgrass. Suppressing the growth of the seeds is currently the most effective way of controlling the growth of crabgrass. If you’re successful at controlling the seed production of crabgrass by preventing more plants from growing, then you will greatly impact the amount of crabgrass that can potentially invade your lawn.

The “opportunity” part of the equation also must be addressed…

Opportunity is defined as a set of circumstances that makes it possible to do something or for something to happen.

Two of the major factors that allow crabgrass to grow come from weather conditions and turf density.

WEATHER:

Higher than normal rates of precipitation during the spring and/or summer months encourage crabgrass growth by increasing the breakdown of products like crabgrass pre-emergent.

When a treatment of crabgrass pre-emergent is used at a rate consistent with say… a normal amount of rainfall, but your area exceeds the normal by 6” of moisture than the product will not last long enough thru the summer months to control all of the crabgrass.

When the amount of product is used at a rate consistent with say… an average summer temperature of 90 degrees, but the average in your area is exceeded by 3 or 4 degrees, the crabgrass pre-emergent will again, break down prematurely.

Blue Grass Lawn Services applies 2 treatments of the most effective, longest lasting crabgrass control product.

Why do we apply the pre-emergent twice?

We apply one treatment in the early spring and one treatment in the late spring.

The first treatment will prevent virtually all crabgrass seeds from germinating and will typically last thru a “normal” season.  Now ask yourself…  When is the last time we had a “normal season”?

This product will more effectively suppress the growth of crabgrass seeds than almost any other available crabgrass pre-emergent product.  With the weather being a major factor, alone, this application would eventually fall victim to the same outcome as any other single crabgrass treatment if weather conditions were wet enough, dry enough, or humid enough… which is precisely why we apply the second treatment.

The second treatment will extend the controllability of the first treatment because it is put down at a later date and overlapped with the first application, making the two treatments together not only last longer but will create a crabgrass pre-emergent barrier that will last thru almost any extreme weather event(s).

(A less than perfect season will allow the first treatment alone to last from say: March thru July, while the second application will last from May thru September, at which point the crabgrass will have stopped growing for the season).

THIS IS WHY BLUE GRASS LAWN SERVICE HAS BEEN SO CONSISTENT & SUCCESSFUL AT CONTROLLING CRABGRASS FOR OVER 33 YEARS.

TURF DENSITY:

Remember we said earlier that plants are opportunistic… Well, when there are thin spots or complete bare areas throughout a lawn, this gives crabgrass as well as any other plant the opportunity to grow as these areas have no competition.

Assuming a 100 sq. ft. area of soil can support a 1,000,000 plants and there are a million “grass” plants growing in that area, there would be no room left for any other plant to grow.

Now let’s assume that the same area had only 500,000 “grass” plants…  That leaves enough space for thousands of other seeds to grow that will produce thousands of plants that you probably would not like to see in your lawn…  This is why keeping your lawn as thick as possible thru overseeding will help reduce the likelihood of plants like crabgrass from taking hold.

02 Nov 2023
plants-for-shady-areas

What You Can Grow In Shady Spaces

All shade is not equal. Some shady conditions will yield much more produce than others will, while some areas are better left for hostas and moss. Gardeners should be familiar with the different types of shade, but should also keep in mind that measuring how much shade your garden gets isn’t always easy. As long as your space gets at least three to four hours of sun, you’ll have a good choice.

It’s helpful for extending the harvest season of crops which might otherwise bolt too quickly in summer heat, and you can enjoy all the beautiful ornamental plants that actually prefer some shade to thrive. You could also think about using your shady space to grow plants to use as Christmas decoration.

If your space gets 3 – 4 hours sun, your choice is restricted but there is still a lot you can grow. Good choices include:

Most leafy crops grow well in less sun including:

  • chard
  • kale
  • spinach

3 – 4 hours sun

If your space gets 3 – 4 hours sun, your choice is restricted but there is still a lot you can grow. Good choices include:

Leafy crops

Most leafy crops (and there is a huge choice now  in many seed catalogues) grow well in less sun including

  • chard
  • kale
  • spinach
  • sorrel
  • most Asian leaves, including Chinese cabbage, the mustards, pak choi and mizuna.
  • most salad leaves including lettuce, rocket, winter purslane, land cress, and lambs lettuce.

Herbs

These herbs are all well suited to less sun:

  • parsley
  • mint
  • chives and garlic chives
  • coriander
  • chervil
  • wild garlic

While the following herbs, traditionally grown in full sun, will grow OK in less. They will still taste good, if not quite as full flavoured as full sun.

  • rosemary
  • dill
  • basil
  • sage
  • thyme
  • bay
  • oregano

Shoots

Most shoots or microgreens (ie harvested when just a few inches tall) will grow productively in less sun including

  • pea
  • fava bean and broad bean
  • sunflower
  • chickpea
  • sweetcorn
  • wheat
  • buckwheat
  • radish

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